An emerald cut is a step cut: its facets run in straight, parallel rows, like steps, rather than radiating from the centre as a brilliant’s do, and its corners are cut away. The Asscher is the same cut drawn square, the emerald cut’s own family, so you will find one here beside the rectangular form.
The long facets give broad flashes of light and dark, the look often called a hall of mirrors, rather than a brilliant’s scattered sparkle. They also show clarity more openly than a brilliant does, so clarity deserves more of your attention here, as do steps that run evenly and an outline, from nearly square to long and slender, that suits the hand it is for.
Here the cut is held in gold all the way round, without claws, so nothing interrupts its steps. On Soraya an Asscher-cut diamond sits in a full bezel, with the ornament kept below the stone in a gallery pierced with tall arches; on Panah an emerald cut sits down into a continuous collar of gold, with a star-set diamond on each shoulder.
The Silux Promise
Your engagement ring, designed free. Nothing made until you say yes.
Sit with the person who will design the ring, keep the design and the honest numbers, and commit to nothing until the model is exactly right.
Designed free
A private hour with the designer, then your design drawn up and sent with honest numbers. Yours to keep, commission or not.
Nothing cut until you say so
You approve the exact stone, certificate in hand, and the finished model before any metal is touched. Guaranteed, by name.
Made in 4 weeks
Made, set, finished and hallmarked within 4 weeks of your model approval. A written promise on your quotation.
No fee, no card details, no obligation. A young studio earns trust by proof, not promises.
2 emerald and Asscher cut rings
Made to order
How a commission works
Every ring here is made to order, and every one can be customised. A commission begins with a free design session with the designer, at the studio in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter or by video call, wherever you are.
The chosen design becomes a precise digital model, built around the exact stone you approve. Nothing is cut, cast or set until you have approved the digital model.
From design approval, four to six weeks is the honest working range for most commissions, delivery included. A stone you already own is welcome, whether it was bought or inherited, and across every ring the centre stone is your decision: natural or laboratory grown.
Frequently asked
What is the difference between an emerald cut and an Asscher?
Both are step cuts, with straight, parallel facets and the corners cut away. An emerald cut is a rectangle and an Asscher is a square, so an Asscher’s steps read as squares within squares, receding towards its centre. On this page, Soraya is the Asscher.
Does an emerald cut show inclusions more than a round diamond?
Usually, yes. A step cut’s long, open facets give broad flashes of light rather than a scatter of small sparkles, so they show what is inside the stone more openly than a brilliant does. That is why clarity matters more in an emerald cut, and why the stone itself is worth judging, not only its grade.
Why does an emerald cut have its corners cut away?
A sharp corner is the part of a stone most easily chipped, so the corners are cut away. That leaves the outline its softened, eight-sided shape, and the stone less exposed in everyday wear.
Why are the emerald cuts here held without claws?
Each ring here holds its stone in gold all the way round. On Soraya a full bezel means nothing breaks the square outline; on Panah a continuous collar holds the stone flush, with nothing to catch on a sleeve and nothing to interrupt the step cuts. Gold around the edge also protects the cut corners.
Can I change the metal or the stone on one of these rings?
Yes. Start from any ring here and alter the metal, the stone or the proportions, or start from nothing at all and have a ring designed around your own brief. Both routes are the same commission.
Begin with a free design session.
An hour with the person who designs your piece, then the design and honest numbers sent to you, yours to keep. Nothing is made until you say yes.
Book your free design session